Xoskel 2nd Gen Frontier Bumper Mouth Bracket Install

Phelan

New Member
I started out by removing the grill following these instructions. Next I removed the retaining clips from the bracket and slid it into place from the driver's side opening in the bumper mouth resulting in the below arrangement.

Bottom View Unbolted



Top View Unbolted



Then I attached the clips to hand tight

Bottom View Loosely Bolted



After getting the bracket lined up like I wanted and tightened down I went to mount the lights and ran into a problem. The cutouts on the bracket are exactly 7/16th and the KC 7/16th mounting studs looked to be slightly bigger than advertised. So off came the bracket and out came the files. Took just a few minutes to file out the cutouts enough for the stud to fit through. Once I remounted the bracket I got the lights mounted hand tight and proceeded to tackle the wiring.

KC 26 series mounted hand tight



I popped out the blank next to the cargo light and put this Daystar switch in. Ran 1 green and 1 white to the switch with the green (load) wire off relays spliced together near the relays. Tucked everything into some wire loom and zipped tied it at the back on some pre-existing wiring.

Wiring finished and everything tucked away



Currently the lights are aimed so that at 30' the hot spots of the KCs meet up with the low beams.

Lights post aiming

 

mdawg4x4

Administrator
I like it. Those lights are a perfect fit for that opening. Similar to what I had done for one pair, but, originally, I used individual brackets for each light. Vibrations from having the light mounted to an extended bracket that was mounted to the same bumper hole fatigued the bumper tabs and broke one completely off. Hopefully, using all four holes and one plate will prevent the same thing from happening.

I came back and added a White Rhino Fab light bar using those holes. The WRF light bar also has a bracket extending rearward on both sides to a verticle bracket for reinforcement. It requires a 1 hole to be drilled on each side.

Watch for vibrations, at night when they are on, so you don't wind up loosing your bumper tabs like I did.

Where did you mount your switch? I found one that replaces the factory switch blanks perfectly so it looks better than the KC switch.
KC switch


New switch


Switch location for the KC Slimlites I recently added
 

Phelan

New Member
I mounted mine where you've got yours. At first I was worried about leaving them on accidentally and running the battery down (like I did while aiming them), but after going to the grocery store with them on last night I'm fairly certain the switch LED is bright enough I'll not forget it's on unless I go blind.

The bracket itself doesn't bolt to the bumper, it rests on top of the uprights and the retaining clips come in from the front to hold it in place. Didn't notice any vibrations last night, but was mostly on smoothly paved roads.
 

mdawg4x4

Administrator
That was my other switch choice, but was worried I would bump it while getting out and turn them on by accident. I also went back and tied the power to the switch to the wire going to the radio that dims the radio lights when you turn your lights on. That way your KCs only work if your park/headlights lights are turned on.

They look so good paired like that, it makes me want to go back and add 2 more of the 2X6 KCs under the bumper.
 

Phelan

New Member
Went to my sister's for NYE and didn't notice any bouncing of the lights (that wasn't attributed to the whole truck bouncing on the wash out) and everything is still snug. Did notice that at greater distances than I used for aiming the left most light is noticeably higher than the other three; need to get that taken care of, probably next weekend when I install the factory fogs.
 

mdawg4x4

Administrator
I had the same issue with mine. I had to tighten them a lot more than I thought I would to keep them from moving. Same with the Slimlites. Have you thought about an aftermarket fog in the factory location that does not require the black finisher? I spent a little time, when my truck was new, researching a quality 4" round fog. I think it would fit. You would have fab up a mount bracket. You could still utilize the factory stalk if you wanted to install it. Just incorporate a relay. I'm not sure what kind of relay the factory fogs use.
 

La Queen

New Member
Nice! That's what I want to go for but I'm uneasy about splicing any wires. Maybe it can be set up into the factory fog stalks and still be able to utilize the OEM light/fog staulk?
 

Phelan

New Member
The only splicing needed was between the two KC wiring harnesses of the green (load) wire. One of the things that sold me on the KC lights was it coming with a completed wiring harness; if you're only doing 1 set of lights it is totally plug and play.

Attached is the wiring diagram from KC that I used.

Honestly the most difficult part (other than getting my body under the dash) was popping out the blank finisher to put the switch in.
 

Attachments

Phelan

New Member
Some quick shots I grabbed New Years Eve w/my iPhone, the front of the truck was angled slightly downward. I'll try to grab some better pics on a move level surface in the near future.

KCs only


KCs & low beams


KCs & high beams
 
G

Gray Ghost 2.5 SL

Guest
I have owned Sentras. Titan, Frontier and Altima. I have never been impressed with the stock headlights. The older you get your eyes need all the help you can give them. I'm certinally glad we have after market products to enhance the Nissan products. Of course when your young with good eye sight you don't notice it.
 

mdawg4x4

Administrator
Phelan, Have you thought about angling the outer 2 lKCs slightly more outward? It may give you a little wider coverage.
 

Phelan

New Member
I'm debating downward and out some to create more of an arc of light. I want more light to the sides to light up deer, but at the same time don't want to be the asshole blinding oncoming traffic.
 

mdawg4x4

Administrator
The sides will get covered by the factory fogs when you get them installed. Deer is the reason I run mine even if there is no fog.
 

Phelan

New Member
That table was 50-60 feet out, if I'd been parked on level ground I would have been lighting up the tree line another 20 foot back. I could easily get more distance if I weren't trying to be conscious of oncoming traffic.
 

La Queen

New Member
I like your setup for off-road use only. Maybe blind a snowbird or two. :p Maybe if you drive with them off within city limits you would be fine to raise them a little.
 

Phelan

New Member
La Queen said:
I like your setup for off-road use only. Maybe blind a snowbird or two. :p Maybe if you drive with them off within city limits you would be fine to raise them a little.
The 5000 dead birds over new years weekend has not been proven to be caused by my new lights! ;)
 

Rav3n

New Member
I ordered the mouth bracket and installed it and the lights last Saturday. I ran the wires on Sunday as I thought they should, but nothing happened.

I attached a rough diagram of the current wiring and two possible fixes. Anyone around the Mt. Holly/Burlington NJ area that can help take a look and show me what I did wrong?
 

Attachments

mdawg4x4

Administrator
12V positive should go straight to the switch as well as the relay. If the switch has a light to indicate on, it should have a ground as well.
I'll see if I can't create a wire diagram tonight when I get home.
 
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