suspension mods

1rst pilgrim

New Member
I am new to this forum but have been reading comments for a while now. On this forum and others , people are talking about adding a strut spacer to level or lift the fronty. The problem with this seems to be contact between the strut tower and the UCA. This I believe will eliminate most if not all downward travel in the suspension. Correct me if I'm wrong. Can we instead cut and drop the strut tower two inches and acheive the same thing without decreasing the distance between the tower and UCA and eliminate all contact. ?
 

mdawg4x4

Administrator
Welcome to "The Spot"

If you are not going to be going offroad, the spacer is just fine without contact. I you will be going offroad a little, mild offroading, spacers and aftermarket upper control arms (UCAs) will allow you to add bigger tires and eliminate coil bucket contact.

I would go with the Calmini lift and radflos if I had my choice.

I sure wouldn't try to cut and modify any of my suspension componants.
 

1rst pilgrim

New Member
Thanks for the advise. I was just trying to see if this would work. I am 63 so don't go hammering like I use to, but I hunt hard and fish haerd still, so I do go off raod. So far the frontier has gotten me in and out rather easily with stock suspention. Like I stated I go easily through the woods now. I may climb some granit stairs while trying to get to my turkey grounds at an old quarry, but I do it easily and slowly. Will the aftermarket UCA and bilstien sift strut handle that or maybe the Calmari struts. Or are all these lifts other than a full suspension just to make it look nice on the streets.
 

1rst pilgrim

New Member
Thanks, i really need a system that will let me carefully rock climb a little and get me over some mild wahoos in the woods. I think I will save my pennies and buy an aftermarket UCA and front springs with rear blocks when i can. This is a great forum by the way
 

mdawg4x4

Administrator
I believe the spacers will give you what you need. The coil bucket contact should not happen while on road. As Sandi says, that is what she is running with mild off road excursions. If you are looking for room for larger tires, you will also need to remove the lower valence panel below the front bumper and trim a small portion of the front mug gaurd. I am running a 2.5" lift with 1" lift in the rear via longer shackles and 285-75/16 tires (33" dia). These pics show what I trimmed. The 2nd shows the rub spots and the 3rd shows what I trimmed to eliminate the rubbing.





A good source for info would be Greg at PRG Products. E-mail would probably be easier to get through. you may not get an immediate answer, but Greg knows the Frontier suspension better than most all other sources.
http://www.prgproducts.com/
 

1rst pilgrim

New Member
Thanks that is very usefull info. By the way that is one nice looking frontier. I may start with a bilstien lift strut and rear blocks since I can't afford the price of the PRG spring overs and graduate to UCAs from PRG. Does that sound doable?
 

mdawg4x4

Administrator
Yes sir. I wish I had seen those lift struts when I bought my lift. I bet they will ride better than mine because you reuse the factory coils. I would probably do shackles rather than blocks. I am not a fan of blocks, even small ones. Blocks creat added torque in your leaf springs. Small ones are OK, I just chose shackles.
One more thing, don't forget to get camber adjust bolts so you can have the front end lined up. And make sure to go to a reputable alignment shop, preferably one you know.

Thanks for the comments on my truck. I absolutely love it.

Post some pics of your truck when you get a chance.
 

mdawg4x4

Administrator
Thank you. I added Bushwacker flares since those pics. I need to get good photos with them. Had to cover up some paint scrapes due to a sign in the left lane around a blind corner at the drop off at the local hospital.


 

1rst pilgrim

New Member
Mike those bushwackers add even more to the looks of the truck. Thats an accessory I will add. How is the clearance on the bottom inner part of the flair where we have to trim the mud flaps. Are those bolts the real ones or do the flairs screw on from under the fenders. God thats a nice looking rig.
 

mdawg4x4

Administrator
The flares have more clearance at the rear of the front wheels than the mud flaps did. The stainless bolts are for looks only. They are through the flare only. The flares attach around the lip of the wheel opening. You only have to drill 2 holes, the second from the front on both front flares. The lip is a little different at that point to use the same clips as the rest of the attachment points.

I had rather have the style that doesn't have the fake stainless bolts, but these are all that are offered for the Frontier. I am happy with the results.

Here is the reason they are there. I sanded the rust away, applied a couple coats of self etching primer, and a couple coats of spray on bedliner for surface protection. I didn't want a color or surface smoothness difference between the bed and cab after a paint repair. I also didn't want a spot repair that will show a few years later.


 

OkieScot

New Member
Your grass certainly does look nice and green. Surely that picture was taken in the spring or early part of the summer before the heat hit us.
 

mdawg4x4

Administrator
OkieScot said:
Your grass certainly does look nice and green. Surely that picture was taken in the spring or early part of the summer before the heat hit us.
Actually, that was only about a month ago. We have had quite a bit of rain on a regular basis, even with the heat.
 
Top