My 'new' Hardbody!

eglaisi

New Member
Well, got the paperwork transferred over and such and brought the new child home. Sad to see the Pathfinder go, it was a good truck... but it's time to give this one the TLC it deserves. It's had a really hard life. I've known the past 2 owners of it and they never took care of it. I don't think it's ever been washed. They painted over the purple exterior with rattlecan black, which will be fun getting off :smt011 The last owner (who I bought it from) rolled it while speeding offroad. Took a hard hit on the rear cab corner and door. Good thing it had a rollbar on it, saved the box and probably the guy's life. Sat on it's side for 4 hours, they tipped it back over; started it up and drove away. Only leaked a little PS fluid, but no engine oil.

95 Hardbody, not sure what base model, 3.0L V6 5 speed 4x4, a hair over 100k miles on it. LSD in back (which I'm really happy about, only thing that I'm disappointed about is the rear drum brakes (could always do a swap though). Right now the CEL is on and it stalls if your foot isn't on the gas, so I'll fix that ASAP and leave it until spring.








Better pics tomorrow when it's light out
 

carphreak

New Member
I WAS RIGHT!!! lol


well technically it was my 2nd choice/guess but still.... :smt029

right away i see three things that i think is good:
- has the later model dash (curved instead of blocky)
- has a roll bar on the bed (might be optional equipment too)
- has not too shabby looking rims (it's got potential)

does it have any extra seat adjustments/sunroof? obviously its a kingcab 3.0 but it maybe an SE or XE. the options might help determine that.

so far i am leaning towards the fact that it is an XE with the value truck package and the performance package...
 

eglaisi

New Member
Yeah I really like the modern-style dash/interior compared to the old-style like in my pathfinder. Roll bar definitely stays in the bed, after a restoration anyway. And the rims are American Racing, 15" not sure on width. 31x12.5 Super Swamper TSLs on them.

No additional seat adjustments, just forward/backward and lean back/forth. No sunroof either, thinking about adding one though, since the roof needs ALOT of work anyway.

I just decoded my VIN by looking in the Service manual and it doesn't say what model is, but I can say it's made in Smyrna, Tennessee! :smt041 Its also got the HG43 LSD rear end with 4.375:1 gearing. Gonna check out the ECU tomorrow and see what codes it spits at me.
 

carphreak

New Member
yeah in that case it might possibly be an XE with the performance package it would have gotten you the LSD. SE had some kind of 6 way seat adjustment and had the sunroof optional.
 

eglaisi

New Member
Probably an XE. Not really a big deal though, it's got a couple bells and whistles. Oh, and it's lifted 3" body lift (might chop it down to a 2 or 1" and throw in a 3" suspension lift). I see a flowmaster under the truck too, and it's got a nice rear bumper too. Needs a new front one, so I'm going completely custom.
 

Shift_Avenger

Active Member
Very nice, talk to Res I am sure he has a bunch on info. So since his is the flaming marshmallow what is yours going to be??
 

eglaisi

New Member
Haven't decided yet, I'll have to tear into it and see what it throws back at me.

Here's some more pics:






As you can tell, the door and fender are tweaked, do both are getting replaced. The cab looks better than it really is in the pics, the top part is actually pushed towards the passenger side like a parallelogram. Nothing a bunch of time won't fix.
 

mdawg4x4

Administrator
Contact Reserector. He has much knowledge about the Hardbody trucks. If you don't' hear back, let me know. I know where to find him.
 

LilRedExpress

New Member
OK, my first car, a Chevy Vega, was in much better shape than that and I paid $75.00 for it, put $400.00 into repairs and then drove it for 18 months until I killed the clutch, (We did the last manual adjustment on it before I stated to drive it.)

Now, that was 22 years ago, so, with inflation, the 75 should now be 141.86 and the 400 should be 756.58 so I expect you to be able to have bought that thing and get it road worthy for under a grand or you spent too much! :smt003 :smt023 :smt016
 

eglaisi

New Member
Well, at least it runs... :smt042 not well though. I started it up tonight and found out that it stalls if you don't keep your foot on the gas at about 3K rpm. A little snooping around in the engine bay and I discovered a broken regulator. I then looked it up in the FSM and found out it's the IACV-AIR REGULATOR, an $87 part from courtesy parts. It basically controls the idle speed, so that makes sense. I'll check out the junkyard on Saturday, I think they have a V6 Hardbody there.

I'm not too sure about the $1000 to get it road worthy. It all depends on the price for a new door and a new fender. Other than that... I don't think it should be a problem.
 

Reserector

New Member
Use a bottle jack or a porta-power to square the cab. It will need to bear against the passenger floor, diagonally to the driver side roof. A piece of pipe will make a good extension. Because of the jump seat opening, you will have to bridge that area with a hunk of timber to spread the load on the floor.

Press it out a bit, then let off. Repeat. You might have to persuade it with a hammer while the pressure is on it. Certainly do-able.
 

carphreak

New Member
if you are going to offroad it (duh), i say paint it flat red with flat black tribal flames.

like this:

(one of my favorite non nissan trucks at SEMA so far)

seriously i think your hardbody will look good in this paint scheme. and you did say you are replacing the front bumper. perfect! keep the wheels too
 

eglaisi

New Member
I'm gonna fool around with some colors at work (shh, don't tell my boss). I think a camo green would look decent on it, if it was done properly.



I've always loved that picture.

Anyway, colors are the last thing I should be worrying about right now. I think I'm going to JB weld the IACV piece tonight and see if I can actually get this thing running.
 

eglaisi

New Member
Reserector said:
Use a bottle jack or a porta-power to square the cab. It will need to bear against the passenger floor, diagonally to the driver side roof. A piece of pipe will make a good extension. Because of the jump seat opening, you will have to bridge that area with a hunk of timber to spread the load on the floor.

Press it out a bit, then let off. Repeat. You might have to persuade it with a hammer while the pressure is on it. Certainly do-able.

I'll throw it on the frame rack and see what I can pull out. Usually these trucks are fairly easy to straighten, it's just those damned Ford hydro-formed frames that are a bear to pull.
 
Top